The first stop of the day was at the internet café, where I tried in vane to send my update for the website. We then walked down toward the beachfront, and after winding our way through some back street we hit the main road east of Independence Square. We made our way there and walked right through the middle to the monument next to the roundabout. The square had the feel of faded communist granger and covered a huge area. I could just image the place filled wall to wall with troops and tanks, like when you used to see pictures of the parades at Red Square in Russia. Thankfully none were around and after talking a few pictures we moved on along the main coastal road westward to find Akuma Village. Along the way we stopped at the cultural centre to pick up some post cards for Verena, whilst I prowled round the shop looking at what other tourist trinkets where on sale. We turn of down a dirt track toward the coast after spotting the faded sign for the Akuma Village. Once there I was not very impressed. It was a far sized walled compound with stage at one end and a bar at the other and the space in between was filled with chairs and trees. After a brief look around we moved on as there was not anything going on. The place had potential though as a nightspot, but I am not sure I would want to walk through the surrounding area to get there at night time. From there we had spotted another restaurant along the coast and after a while we managed to found our way there. We order food, and after a very long wait I got mine and by the time I had finished Verena food turned up. To boot they tried to over charge us, which soiled the charm of the place, because it had a great location and view of the sea. After lunch we walked on into town and to the Makloa Market. The market is massive and takes up all the space available and then also spills out onto the streets of a triangular area. We spent a long while working our way through and round the many stalls and shops. Along the way we bought an engineering book for me, some Tupper wear to protect eggs whilst travelling and stocked up on fresh veg. Before we left the area we went and checked out the cinema, which we found to be closed for refurbishment. We started the long walk back and need to consult our street map many times before getting back to Cantonments road. Where we decided to treat our selves to a drink in Frankies. I then gave Will (friend of Tyrie’s) a call and we arranged to meet for a drink later that evening at Duncan’s Bar. We sat there for a while before Will finally turned up. But the beer’s where soon flowing and after getting some dinner we moved onto another bar called Sevens. Where Will spoilt us by buying us a cocktail. I in fact had JD and coke, the first since home, around 4 months ago and was a nice change from the beer. It was late by the time we said our goodbyes and went our separate ways.
After a relaxed breakfast we decided to head down along the coast to a small place called Fete. As Verena’s guidebook told of a beach resort there. So we packed the Landy and left Accra heading west. We where not far from the outskirts of the city when we got stuck in a massive traffic jam. Where we crawled along for nearly two hours, not helped buy other crazy drives jumping the queue and blocking the oncoming traffic, causing chaos. Once going again in was not to long before we found the turnoff we needed to take to the coast. We found the beach resort at Fete, but that was all it was, as it didn’t have any place to stay or camp. So we had a look around the area and didn’t find anything that we liked or could afford. So we backtracked a couple of villages and took a connecting road to Winneba. Where we hoped to find a nice place to stay and have a look around. We entered the town through the run down fishing port area. Which in fact seemed to be the general state of the whole town, and after a lengthy search we didn’t fine the accommodation we had listed in our guides. Tried and frustrated we stopped and had lunch at the side of the road at a street stall. After a short discussion we decided to head back to Big Milly’s at Kokrobite as we knew the place and stay there a few days. So with around and hour we drove there, checked it was OK to stay and made camp. We made dinner and then spent the evening sat in one of the raised huts drinking beer and chatting until late.
Unfortunately the story does not end there. We didn’t get much sleep as there was a group of English volunteers partying on into the small hours. At around 03:00 they decided they where going to go skinny-dipping in the sea. Three entered the water and two came back. By the time they started searching for the guy, John age 19, was nowhere to be found. We heard them searching around and they had around 30 people and the police looking until it was light.
We woke and found out the full details of what had happened during the night. Unsurprisingly there was a grim atmosphere around the camp and the remaining members of their group were coming to terms with the fact that they were unlikely to see their friend alive again. We had a relaxed breakfast and chilled out for most of the day, popping off to the village to do a little shopping and try to get my newly acquired mobile to work. During which various officials came and went to take statements and make arrangements. Later that afternoon the group left to catch there flight home as there was nothing useful they could do by staying. Whilst Verena sat writing post cards I decided I would go for a run. I hadn’t done so for ages and found it hard going, and on return to the camp dived into the sea to cool off. That evening we had dinner at the restaurant after which we retired to the roof tent where I read aloud to Verena.
We had a relaxed breakfast and chatted for a while before going into the village to pick up a couple of things. We made lunch and chilled out for the afternoon reading and talking. During which I made us some nice hot chocolate to keep out the chill as the weather was not too great. After making dinner, we spent the rest of the evening playing various board games. We then jumped into the roof tent where it was Verena’s turn to read to me, before falling asleep.
As soon as we were up we were told the news that the body had been found further down the coast. The only conciliation was the body was still in good condition, because of the short time in the water. We had breakfast and packed the Landy, as we had decided we would head back into Accra to get a few things done. After a lengthy wait to pay, as they could not find the keys for the safe, we left Big Milly’s and drove into Accra. First stop was at Busy Internet café, which turned out to be really good. It was also possible for me to send my website update as well as enjoy the fast connection. We then went to the airport to check on Verena’s flight, which was all O.K. We then went to Koala supermarket to do some shopping and then onto Papaya’s for lunch. We then drove down to the main Barclays Bank to get money out. But it was not possible for some strange reasons, and we ran out of time to try next door, so we returned to Osu, Kuku Cottage and then went and changed some cash. As it was Verena’s last night in Ghana we got dressed up and went for a nice meal at one of the local Chinese restaurants. Where we spent all evening enjoying our selves until late.
We had breakfast and headed down to the internet café for an hour or so. By the time we came back to Kuku Cottage it was hot and sticky. Always the way on the day you are going to leave to go home. We then drove round to the DHL office to pick up a package my Mum had sent. As I had information it had arrived in Accra via e-mail. Indeed the parcel was there, which I open as soon as I got back to the Landy. There, amonst other things, was a new pair of Merrell sandals. My birthday present from home. I tried them straight on as my old one where falling apart. To my relief they fitted fine. We then drove on toward the airport and stopped at a supermarket we had spotted before along the way. There we done a little shopping, getting snacks for Verena’s trip home and a couple of things for me. We then went next door for one last drink together. It was all to soon time to go to the airport. So we drove on and were soon there. I dropped Verena off at the departures area and hugged and kissed her goodbye. She walked off into the building as I drove away. I didn’t hang around as only passages with tickets and passports are allowed into the main building. So on my own again and feel sad to see Verena off, I drove back into Accra and to the Osu area. I changed some money and then went on the search for someone to weld up the cracks in the rear door of the Landy. I went round a few different garages before I found one that I felt could do a OK job. I then spent the next hour or more watching the welder at work. They made a fitted a patch to one area and then welded the remaining cracks. They even painted it white when they had finished. Let just hope that is the last time it needs repairing. That evening I met up with a guy called Pete, which we had first met in Kumasi. We met at Duncan’s where we sat chatting the evening away whilst swigging a few beers.
I started the day by watching The Animatrix on VCD, which I had bought the night before whilst at Duncan’s. I then spent most of the day working on website stuff, trying to catch up with the backlog of diary entries which had built up during Verena’s stay. Around 16:00 I had had enough and went down the internet café for a couple of hours. I then decided to go round to Ryan’s Pub to have dinner and watch the opening of the Olympic games in Athens. The opening ceremony did not disappoint and was spectacular as usual. When the teams started coming out I lost interest and wandered back to Kuku cottage and read a little before bed.
I spent most of the day again catching up on the backlog of website stuff. Early evening I gave Will a call and he said for me to come meet him in Ryan’s Pub. As he and a contingent of South Africans were celebrating there victory in the Ruby. When I got there the party was in full swing and one person was busy stage diving into the arms of the other. I got myself a beer and joined them. I found Will who was a little bit worse for wear. We stayed there and had dinner and got through a couple of beers. During which I met a lot of the South Africans and one English lady who was working locally. Will, one of the South African blokes, and me then decided to go on to a bar they both knew called Champs. Once there we played a few games of pool, which some how I managed to win, and we stayed there drinking and listening to the live music until late. Will and me then court a taxi back to Will’s place where I ended up staying the night.
I woke late and sat reading in Will’s lounge until he got up. We then headed down to Frankies for a good breakfast. After which we wandered back to Kuku Cottage where Will had a look around the Landy and at my trip pictures. When we got back they had already put up a tent next to my Landy and set out many chairs underneath. There were even a few guests of the engagement party milling around. After a while Will left to go home and I went out to see what was going on and watch the proceedings. I was soon spotted and dragged into the celebrations. As it turns out in Ghana the engagement is a bigger thing than the wedding. As that is when the dowry is paid and the families give there blessing. The wedding is really just to get blessed in front of god and to make it legal. It was late afternoon by the time things started to rap up and I went back to doing my website stuff for and hour or so. I then spent a while chatting to Richard (one of the guys who live around the compound) before going off to bed.
I had a wash/shave and some breakfast. During which I ran the engine of the Landy to recharge the batteries. I then went down the internet café for an hour and a half before returning to Kuku Cottage. While I was there I met a Dutch guy who gave me the good idea of getting in contact with volunteer organisations to see if any of there staff where changing over soon and thinking about doing some travelling. So I set about finding the Peace Core headquarters, as I had a rough idea where it was. So I walked up to Cantonments circle and round the surrounding area looking for the place. During which I ran into an American women who gave be better directions. After some time I found the Peace Core headquarters and asked to see one of the volunteers. I explained what I was doing there to the few of them who were around and they helped me to make up a notice to put on the message board. They also told me that they would be meeting later that evening at Duncans for a drink and that I should come along. I then wandered back passing the Nigerian embassy along the way and also done some shopping. Later that evening I went round to Duncan’s and met more of the Peace Core volunteers and explained what I was doing. But there was only really one of them who was interested, as all the rest had already made plans. It was late by the time I left them and went back to fall into bed.