Days 211 to 220
Diary Index
Days 231 to 240
I woke early with the light, and was ready to leave by 07:00. I said goodbye to Emile, Mirjam and Clint and was on my way. I drove back the way I came and after a couple of hours arrived at Kunene River Lodge. I stopped to enjoy a cold coke and refuel the Landy from my Jerry cans. I then drove onto Ruacana where I rejoined the tarmac and made good time to Oshakati. Once there I went straight to Northern Auto Repair, where I had arrange to get new dampers. After a little while sorting the details out, I brought the Landy into their garage and got to work. I had fitted the rear dampers and was working on one of the front ones when the guy brought to my attention that it was time to close up. So I moved the Landy outside into there compound and arranged to stay there the night. I then finished fitting the front dampers and took the Landy for a test drive around the block. On return I spent an hour chatting to my parents on the phone. I then had a snack for dinner and after chatting to the security guard for a while went to bed.
I was up with the light, had some breakfast and soon left the garage. I first drove round to a near by supermarket, done some shopping and then went next door to the internet café. I then drove down the road and found a place called Diesel Electric, where the garage guys said I could get a split charge relay. Indeed they had one, and so I bought it, as the Lucas one was still proving unreliable. I then drove on out of town and to the next town of Ondangwa. There I fuelled up and drove south east to the eastern gate of Etosha National Park. Right out side the gate I turned left and followed the track to Ouguma Game Ranch. I stopped at reception and arranged to camp the night. Once I had found my spot I took advantage of the natural water swimming pool and went for a swim. I then met the owner of the site and a British couple who had won a holiday to South Africa and Namibia in a box of tea bags. After a drink we went on a game drive around the ranch area, and saw plenty of game. As the sun was setting we drove back into camp, and it was not long before we sat down to dinner and chatted the night away. After which I set camp and dropped into bed.
(After the usual get up routine, I made my way back to the eastern gate and entered the park. I then drove to Namutoni to pay the entrance fees and then continued on into the park. I spent the whole day driving around between various water holes and saw lots of game. This included Giraffe, Zebra and Springbok, which I had never before seen in the wild. As the afternoon wore on I decided I would drive to Halali camp. Unfortunately along the way I hit a deep area of grave in the outside of a sharp corner, skidded, and even through I steered into the skid, I turned over. After hitting the ground and coming to a rest, I found myself on the other side of the cab. I then checked that I was not hurt, climbed up to turned the engine off and clambered out of the Landy. I then stood on the piste looking back at the Landy, thinking, well you have done it this time. How the hell are you going to get it back onto its wheels. I soon came to the conclusion that which ever way it was coming back onto its wheels the first thing to do is lighten it up. So I propped open the back door and got to work unloading the gear in the back, which had been thrown everywhere in the landing. As I was unloading a car came along and I told the driver to tell the east gate to send a tow truck. Not long after I had finished unloading a tourist truck came along. They stopped and offered their help. I gratefully accepted and it was not long before we had attached straps to the upper wheels of the Landy and the back of the truck. Around 15 people then lifted the Landy a couple of centimetres so that the wheels dug into the ground and the truck pulled it upright. Once untied, I thanked the truck crew and they were on their way. I then loaded my gear and drove onto Halali camp. I walked around the camp ground to find some one I could share a pitch with, as they charged per pitch and it was expensive. I found a nice couple called David and Anna, and they were more than happy to share. We then cleared it with the office and I moved the Landy. They then went of for a sunset game drive, and I cleared up he mess in the back and check over my gear. Thankfully nothing was broken, and only a couple of things had been scratched or dented. I then spent the evening having dinner with David and Anna and chatting until late, whilst sipping on some cold beer.
After breakfast we took a short walk down to the water hole at the camp. But there was nothing around. We said our goodbyes and I spent a while checking over the Landy and topping up oils. I left the camp at around 10:00 and spent the rest of the morning driving around the park and slowly making my way toward the western gate. Along the way I saw some Lions, but unfortunately I could get a good view of them, as they were lying down in the tall grass. I then left Etosha N.P. and drove South West to Outjo. There I refuelled and headed onto Kamanjab. But about 20Km outside the town I spotted signs for a Cheetah sanctuary I had been told about. So I turned of and followed the track to the farm. By this time it was late afternoon and so I drove down to the campsite and joined a overland truck group of the feeding tour. It was really good and we got many fantastic, close up views of the wild cheetahs, and even got to see them run a couple of times. We then went back to the campsite and after dinner I join the group for a beer in the bar, were we stayed chatting until bedtime.
In the early morning light, I walked down to the closest cheetah compound to see if I could get a better view of the mother and her cubs. I did get to see them better, but only for a brief time and didn't manage to get photo. I then packed up and drove back to the farm house to see the tame cheetahs. I was greeted by the owner and we chatted for a while, during which the three tame cheetahs he keeps at his house came round. They were magnificent to look at and acted just luck house cats, licking me and purring when stroked. I then left the Cheetah farm and drove onto Kamanjab, done some shopping, and continued on to Twyfelfontein via a beautiful route through the mountains. I arrived mid afternoon and after checking take there was space at the local campsite, went up the road to view the rock carving. It was only a short walk around the site, but the guide was friendly and did explain what little was know about the carving. I then drove down the road to view burnt mountain and the organ pipes. But where unimpressed with both and soon returned to the camp. There I got chatting to a nice Swiss couple, who had kitted out a Landy, shipped it to Durban and were now touring and travelling back to Europe. We went to the bar for a drink and then also got chatting to two Dutch Ladies who lived in South Africa and were touring Namibia. I had dinner with the Dutch couple after which we all spent the evening chatting long into the night.
I spent the first part of morning panel beating the rear corner of the Landy and fitting the new split charge relay. I then gave the Swiss couple info on the route they where thinking of taking up the west coast, said our goodbyes and where on our way. I drove the piste to Uis, refuelled, and continued onto the coast. Along the way I passed the Brandberg Mountain, an impressive sight, as it stands on a flat plan and reaches the height of 2573m. I then turned north and drove up to the Cape Cross Seal Reserve. I spent around an hour there watching and taking pictures of the seals. As they are impressive creatures, which are so agile in the water, even if they are a bit smelly. I then drove back south and past Henties Bay before finding a campsite for the night. As it was an exposed location and cold compared to the inland temperature, I decided to sleep in the car. So after having dinner I lay in bed reading for a while before going to sleep.
Once on the road I drove into Swakopmund and soon manage to find the industrial area. I then set about finding someone who could replace my window screen. After asking at a couple of places I was directed to a glass cutters, where they removed my broken screen and used it as a template to cut a new one. It was all done and fitted in around an hour, at the cheap price of 400N$ (around £40), bonus! I then went round the corner to the local Scania dealers (Swakopmund Cart Truck Services) as they were recommended as being good with Land Rovers. I explained tat I needed new steering universal joints and a wing mirror glass and within an hour they had the bits. I then fitted them then and there and took the Landy for a test drive round the block. Along the way I stopped at a 4x4 accessories place and bought myself a new front diff guard. Which was another long outstanding problem solved. By this time it was late afternoon, so I drove into town and looked around for Desert Sky Backpackers. It was easy enough to find, and I was soon checked in and given the tour of the place. I then set camp, cooked dinner in the shared kitchen, and spent the evening working on website stuff and chatting to the owner.
After starting the day, I got on with working on my website update. In fact I spent all day finishing it off, only stopping for lunch. Around evening I met a English guy called John, he too was on his travels and was current exploring Africa. We decided to eat out for dinner, and after a recommendation from the owner we set of down the road to a nice restaurant. We enjoyed a great dinner and were both stuffed by the time we finished. During which we swapped travel stories and enjoyed a beer. We then took a wander around the town to walk off dinner and eventually returned to Desert Sky Backpackers, where we pretty must went straight to bed.
I spent a hour or so putting the finishing touches to my website update, then headed off into town and to the internet café. There I uploaded my update and worked my way through my e-mail. I the went for a walk around Swakopmund, exploring the shops. During which I stopped in the Pharmacy too see about getting treatment for a tropical ulcer, which had developed on my leg from an infected mosquito bit. I got first class treatment as the guy cleaned it all out, dressed it and gave me antibiotics to take. I then spent the afternoon trying to find a second hand body board, but the only one I found was too much, and the new ones were silly money. I then went to the hardware store and picked up a few bits and peaces I needed, before returning to Desert Sky Backpackers. There I spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing and reading. After dinner I got chatting to a nice Dutch couple, who had been travelling around various place in the world and where currently exploring Namibia. It was late by the time we finished and I fell straight into bed.
As the sandboarding I had booked the day before was cancelled, I resolved my self to getting a lot of other jobs done. I first went down the internet café and wrote some decent response to a couple of e-mails. I then went round the post office to post a birthday post card to Verena, as her birthday is on the 7th. I then went and checked out another camping shop I had spotted, before returning to the internet café to sort Verena's birthday present, with the wonders of e-shopping. With that done, I took the long way walking back to Desert Sky Backpackers. After dinner I popped down the road and rented a movie (Tears of the Sun) and so spent the evening watching that until late.
Days 211 to 220
Diary Index
Days 231 to 240