Days 301 to 310 Diary Index
Days 321 to 330 
So there I stood with about another 200 climbers, looking up at the 1000m climb ahead. The mountain side eerily reflecting the cold light of the full moon, ending at the top with a carpet of stars. I was soon joined by Cornel and we set off, now behind a lot of the other groups, who where already on the accent. We struck out in a steady but determined pace, and soon found our selves over taking many of the groups that were ahead of us. During this time we also witnessed the first few casualties of the altitude returning down the mountain, because they felt they could not continue. Within an hour or so we found our selves clear of the main groups, now below us, highlighted with the twinkling lights of their head touches. By this time I had started to notice the effects of the altitude on myself more strongly. My headache was now stronger and I now felt that I could not manage to walk any faster and would have to keep this one foot in front of the other pace. But it was encouraging to know that we were still faster than the hordes behind. We struggled on with our head touches off and using the moonlight to find our way. Eventually the loose gray dust and rock turned to a solid surface. I was now feeling light in the head and the only thing I could think was that we must be close to the edge of the rim. Indeed we were and after around 3.5 hours of climbing we stumbled among the rocks to find the Gilman's point sign. It read 5681m, great only another 300m to go and I felt like shit. After a brief rest to put on my water proofs, as the temperature had dropped to some where around -10C we stumbled on over the craggy edge of the volcanic rim. As we walked we could see the snow patches in the crater floor reflecting the moonlight making it look silvery. It was not long before we saw lights coming the other way, and as we drew near it became evident that they were carrying one of the party who was unconscious. They went past with virtually not saying a word, probably suffering the effects if not worse than us. As we walked on we noticed another set of lights always in front of us. We only found out that there was another group ahead of us when we ran into them not far from the top. So at around 5:30 that morning the well photographed sign marking the top of Uhuru peak came into focus. As I approached I got a overwhelming felling of success and relief and couldn't help but cry. I fumbled around for my camera and we took the summit photos. As the elation wore off so the reality of the cold and exhaustion came storming back. We quickly decided that we couldn't stay to watch the sun rise and started to make our way back down. Thankfully going down proved a lot easier and it was not that long before we ran into the fastest of the following groups coming the other way. As the sun broke the horizon we reached Gilman's point. It was on hell of a view, with the carpet of cloud below us turned to a golden shine. Normally only some you would see from an aircraft. We then continued our decent down the 1000m slope of loose gray dust and stone. It seamed to go on forever with my slow bounding strides siding down the slope, with weakened legs and using my poles for support. Eventually the camp came into view and the slope flattened out to the approach path to the camp.
I collapsed onto my dorm bed and struggled into my sleeping bag to get warm and rest. It was not long before Valance brought me some breakfast which I sheepishly nibbled at. Which I know is never a good sign if I loose my appetite. Slowly the first of the groups came back to the camp to share stories of those that did and didn't make it.
It was around 10:00 when we packed up and start to make our way back down the mountain. At first across the wide desert plain to the scrubby hills and the Horombo camp. We arrived around lunch time and it was not until late that afternoon did I really start to feel better. That evening at dinner I chatted to many other climbers from all over the world, but couldn't keep my eye's open for long and had to go back to my hut for a well disserved sleep.
It was a leisurely start to the day and we finally set off for the walk down around 09:00. It took just over 2 hours to reach the first camp. As we dissented we saw nice views of Moshi and the surrounding country side for most of the way down. Once at the camp we took a short rest and had a snack, before entering the forest and continuing the decent to the park gate.
All of that morning Cornel (Guide) was chatting away. I wouldn't have minded, if only every conversation he started had not centered around money, tips and who should get what. So much so I told him to shut up about it otherwise all of them where going to get nothing. That seamed to work, and I managed to steer the conversation to his family and the house he was building.
As we approached the park gate a couple of kids appeared wanting to sell me souvenirs. Most of it was tack, but they did do a T-shirt with the complete route on the back that I did like. As we were bargaining the price they heard other men coming up the path and scampered into the bushes to hide. Realizing that they weren't supposed to be here I put the T-shirt in my back pack before the men walked past. Cornel then informed me that they were park security and were on the look out for the kids and other touts. When they had gone the kids emerged and we carried on and we agreed on a price of 10 USD.
We then made or way down to the park gate and went round to the office to sign the register book. After which I was presented my summit certificate which look very professional. We then met up with Valance (porter) and Limpman (cook) and went down the road for a beer. At this point I was introduced to a apparent fifth member of our group, James who was apparently another porter. With the distinct smell of bull shit in the air I flatly refused to pay the guy any tip on the grounds I hadn't seen him the whole trip and that it was agreed at the beginning that I would need only one guide, one cook and one porter. As we where nearing finishing our beers I asked for the bill. To cap it off the barman then tried to do me on the price and charge me for an extra beer, as some stranger in the corner had clamed to be with our group. After a bit discussion the barman tried to make out that he was doing so mathematical wizardry, the extra beer disappeared and the price for our beers was brought down to reasonably close to the proper price. So much for drinking with the locals then! I gave Limpman his tip of 20 USD, which he did look too happy about, and we said our good byes. The rest of use then got into the minibus and drove back to Moshi.Once back at the hotel I gave Cornel and Valance there tips of 20 USD each, which Cornel didn't look happy about either and bought them a Coke.
I then took my stuff to my room, showered and changed. I then went down the street to change some money and to buy so credit to use the phone. Unfortunately I could get hold of anyone at home, and so I called one of my mates who I had been meaning to give a call for a while. While I had been going to and fro to the Landy I had noticed another overland kited Landy in the compound. I asked reception who's it was and was directed to two Irish lads. So I went over for a chat. It turned out that they had recently driven down through Sudan and where on there way to Cape Town. Unfortunately I was staring the feel really sick by this point and had to cut our conversation short and run back to my room to be sick. That's were I spent the rest of the evening and night in my room being sick every hour or so, unable to even keep water down.
By the early hours I managed to keep down some water, and I had figured out it must be food poisoning. I then managed to keep a light breakfast of fruit down, before repacking the Landy and getting ready to leave. I then drove out of the hotel compound and down the road to a fuel station and filled up the main tank. I then drove on out of Moshi and headed for Arusha.
I was just cruising along the road when I spotted a cyclist up ahead. As I passed I managed to see it was Werner, the German lad I had been talking to on the mountain. So I pulled over for a chat. It quickly became apparent that his rear wheel bearing had broken and so I offered him a lift to Arusha. We loaded the bike on the roof and his gear in the back, and set off. Along the way we were chatting and it was decided that he would instead stay with me and come along to Nairobi at least and then see how the land lies. So we put the remaining Tanzania money we had together and spent it on filling the jerry cans and buying food on our way to the border.
As we drove further North the landscape changed quite dramatically, from lush green vegetation to open dry grassy plains and mountains. When we stopped for lunch we were greeted by three Massi warriors, who were tending their sheep. The guys were colorfully dressed in their traditional clothes and carried large spears and swords. But their friendly manner told us we had nothing to worry about, and we managed a short chat in broken English and international sign language. We cheerfully said goodbye and continued on our way to the border.
Getting stamped out of Tanzania was no problem and just involved the normal wandering from office to office. So we drove through to the Kenyan side. There things got a little more complicated as I had to buy my visa there (50 USD) and also pay for road tax (40 USD). But it was all above board and official and once we had the necessary bit of paper we were on our way.
It then took us a couple of hours driving on good tarmac to arrive in Nairobi. I turned into a bit of a challenge to negotiate the hectic traffic and sparsely signed routes, but we manage to find our way to the Upper Hill Campsite without to much grief. Coming from the city center and then driving into the relatively quite tree shaded compound of the campsite was a bit of a contrast. We soon found a spot, parked up and went to the office to arrange to stay. We were then given the tour and told where everything was, before being left to our own devices.
We soon got chatting to a couple of French cyclists going from Cape to Cairo and an American backpacker. It had turned out that they were the ones I had seen cycling along the road just short of Moshi. After a long day we settle down to some dinner or rice and Avocado and try the South African white wine I had left. I don't know if it was because of the traveling and changes in heat or something, but it didn't taste nice and we couldn't finish the bottle. Exhausted we soon crashed out in the roof tent and went off to the land of nod.
While chatting over breakfast we confirmed our decision to go find the Sudanese and Ethiopian embassies to see if we could get visa's. The Sudanese was supposedly the closest so we set off for that one first. But when we arrived found that it had moved to another location. But handily the guard there gave use good directions to its new home, and we got the feeling that we were not the first to ask.
From our current position the Ethiopian embassy was quite close so we decided to go there before trying to find the Sudan embassy. It was a short walk and easy enough to find, located in a suburban street, with big gates and national flag displayed. As soon as we entered someone asked us what we wanted and then explained what we had to do to get the visa. Fill in one form and hand over one photo and 20 USD. We did this and were then told to go sit back down. We figured that they would look over the forms and check that everything was OK then tell us to come back tomorrow. We waited around 20min and then were called back to the desk, where we were handed back our passports. Our first thought was that we had been refused entry, but after a quick chat with the reception girl and checking our passports we had been issued visa's there and then. Wow, now that's what you call service and had to be the fastest visa I had every received from an embassy.
With our spirits lifted we set off on the 3Km walk to the Sudanese embassy. Once there we have to talk our way in to be able to see the consol, and once in where not treated very nicely. They flatly said they do not issue any visas there and didn't have any information as to whether it would be possible in Addis Ababa. Cheesed off we wander back to the campsite to have some lunch, before going down the road to get money out and go to the internet.
We then headed into the city center to do a bit more food shopping before returning to the campsite. Not long after we were back an South African couple pulled in, in their Unimog mobile home. While I checked over the Landy Werner made pancakes for dinner, after which we got chatting to the SA couple about the road ahead. That evening we also decided that there was nothing else we needed to do in Nairobi and so would leave for Ethiopia tomorrow.
We were up at 06:00 and packed, ready to go by 08:00. We followed the crazy traffic system out of Nairobi and headed towards Mount Kenya, as our route would take us straight past the western side, before we really headed out into the wilds for the border. As we approached we could only see the lower slows of the mountain, but were rewarded with a brief glimpse of the snowy peak as the clouds parted with the wind. We then continued on our way heading toward the town of Isolo.
We were aware that we would also pass over the equator on our way, and it was easy enough to spot the bright yellow sign at the side of the road, so we pulled over. We were soon approached by a couple of people wanting us to come see their craft stalls. When we said we weren't interested they said they could show is the drain plug effect. For those of you who unaware when water drains down a hole the water spins clockwise in the northern hemisphere and anti-clockwise in the southern hemisphere. Also while directly over the equator it does not spin at all. Keep to see this in real life and curious to see if it would work over such a short distance we said alright. The guy then produced two buckets, one with a small hole in the bottom, and we walked into the northern hemisphere 20m or so. Sure enough the water drained clockwise, like we had seen many times at home. So we then walked back to the equator and tried it there. The water didn't spin at all and drain perfectly straight into the bucket below. We then walked 20m or so in the southern hemisphere and tried the experiment again. To our surprise the water spun anti-clockwise, but not just weakly but with a distinct strong spin. For us it was interesting to see the effect in real life and surprising that it worked so well over such a short distance either side of the equator. Satisfied we gave to guy a tip, took our photo's and continued on our way.
Unfortunately later that afternoon we missed our turn off to Isolo and where some way down the road by the time we realized, and so had to back track. This cost us valuable fuel, as I had figured we would reach the town with not much to spare anyway, and by the time we arrived we were running on fumes. We stopped at the fuel station and filled up, which proved we only had a couple of liters left in the tank. We paid for the fuel with the last of our money and drove out of town. The potholed street soon turned into piste and the building dropped away to revile wide areas of scrubby grass land and small farms. The piste was badly corrugated and very rough and so the first part we drove along side tracks. These eventually ran out and we returned to the main piste where we found it was best to maintain 60Kph to get the smoothest ride. We carried on until dusk and then found our self a campsite away from the road near a dried river bed. As the light faded we made dinner and chatted until it was time to go to bed.
All that night it had been raining and there was lighting on the horizon for a couple of hours. By morning the ground was soft and muddy and we had to watch our step as we had breakfast and packed away. Thinking this might cause us problems getting back to the piste I engaged low gear and diff-lock and attempted to move. I didn't get one meter before the tires were spinning on both axles. I tried to work my way back and forth to get a run up but to no avail. It quickly became obvious that the only way out of this hole involved winching. As the rain started to come down harder I stepped out side and went to find something I could anchor onto. It took some time to set the winch cable up and get a secure anchorage around a low lying tree. As you tried to move anywhere your feet were sliding in the sticky mud. In the pouring rain we worked together to inch the Landy forward until the winch gear started to slip and then we had to use the sand plates to gain extra grip to climb through a ditch. It took us 1.5 hours of muddy fighting to get the Landy to level ground. We took the muddy equipment to the river to wash the worst off, packed what we could and drove toward the piste. On the way there, I was still in low range with the diff-lock engaged and still there was a couple of moments when the Landy just pulled its way through the water logged mud. To our relief the Landy made it back to the piste without further drama and we were once again on our way to the border.
As the day progressed so the sun came out and dried the terrain. So that by lunch time everything was desert dry and we were being brown by a strong warm wind as we ate our sandwiches. This proved useful as we hung out our wet clothes, which were dried in minutes. We eventually arrived at the border town of Moyale around late afternoon and had driven through most of the town before reaching the border posts. We searched around the offices on the Kenyan side but couldn't find anyone to stamp our papers and had to sit there and wait quite some time until some one showed up. We eventually were ready and moved through to the Ethiopian side, by which time it was early evening. We just managed to catch the customs guy leaving and presented him our papers. We left them with him while we ran across the road to get our passports stamped before the immigration office closed. With that done we returned to the customs office to go through a long process of filling in forms. As they said they didn't want to stamp the Carnet and would issue us a separate import document instead. This was eventually done and after a brief inspection, including the engine number, we were allowed to go.
The road here was a vast improvement on the piste we had driven to the border, but still we didn't get very far before the light started to fade. So we found a spot to pull off the road and headed into the bush to make camp for the night. As we were enjoying a light dinner we were rewarded with a great sunset. As we watched the orange ball melt into the horizon, we talked about the long hard day we had had and it was not not long before we were whispering Z's into the cool still air of the night.
We woke around 6 had breakfast and were on the road for 07:30. It was not long before we had to stop and refill the main tank with diesel from the Jerry cans. We then continued on our way along the upper regions of the Rift Valley and on towards Addis Ababa. The air was distinctly cooler as we drove over the hilly terrain, catching great views of the untouched valleys, punctuated with the odd village surrounded by fields of crops. As we passed through road side villages and the bigger towns I did notice one distinct difference form a lot of African settlements, and that was the lack of rubbish. The sides of the road were clear of plastic bags and burnt rubbish and there was a general air of pride in the areas these peopled lived in.
It was late afternoon, early evening by the time we finally rolled into the outskirts of the city. My first impression was that it didn't look any different from most African cities I had been in. With low lying ramshackled buildings, dust streets and rubbish stroon around. But as we approached the city center the builds grew ever higher and more modern. Our fist task was to find an ATM as we had no local money. This proven harder than we first thought, especially now we had the impression we were in a modern city. We eventually found our way to the Sheraton Hotel, was reportably the only place we could get a cash advance on our credit cards. As soon as we laid eyes on the place we knew this was a top notch poss place. We parked the mud splattered Landy amongst the BMW's and Merc's in the car park and strolled into the fore. The security guard looked us up and down, as we stood there in our travel wiry cloths still with mud stains from the day before, surprisingly let us through with out a word. We found the bank office but it was closed and would reopen in the next half hour. So we main our selves comfortable in the Fourier, sat back and admired the splendor of the place and considered how out of place we must look. We eventually got money out and then set off to find a place to stay for the night. We had already selected a place listed in the Lonely Planet and managed to find it with out too much grief. We arrived at the Baro Hotel, went to reception to sort a room. But after inspecting one was quite convinced that I would rather sleep in the Landy and the rooms were shit holes. So after a little while managed to agree that we could camp in the leafy compound for 20 Bir pp/pn.
Tired from the days events and not in the moon to scower the street we wandered across the road and sat down in the first restaurant we came to. In true African style they gave us a menu and then when we came to order explained that they didn't in fact have most of things on the menu. The choice was really between lamb with vegetables, lamp, or vegetables I think I will have the lamb and vegetables then. It arrived promptly and was a good helping and tasty. Or was it the fact that we would have about eaten anything at that point, hmmmm.... With belly's full we crossed the road back to the Baro, set camp and were soon were hiding in our sleeping bags from the cool night air.
Once we were up and about we decided to go in search of a cafe to get breakfast. So we wandered up the road and had a look around. We were greeted with the hussle and bussle of the city, chaotic traffic, honking horns and people marching to work. We soon found a nice cafe with a good selection of sticky looking cakes. We took a table and then confused the waitress by ordering four different cakes. Our plan being we would each have half of every cake and that way get to try them all. The cakes were great and my peanut tea interesting and nice. Stuffed we waddled back to the Baro Hotel, packed and drove out.
Our plan for the day was to started the ball rolling to get our visas for Sudan. The first step in this process we knew was that we had to get letters of recommendation from our embassies. So we first went in search for the German embassy for Werner. He went in as I sat outside in the Landy. After a while he reappeared with a poss looking peace of paper, embossed and water marked, say in a long winded polite way that he was alright and give him a visa please.
It was my turn next and after parking up across the road from the British Embassy, I left Werner with the Landy and went inside. As I entered the visa office I was surprised by the number of people sat on chairs and lining the walls and every available space, all of which were neatly turned out and well dressed. I felt a bit sheepish when the Security guard stopped the first guy in the queue from reaching the counter and put me there instead. I explained that I wanted a letter of recommendation for the Sudanese Embassy filled in the form, and waited for an hour before it was finally produced, which cost me 600 Bir (38 pounds) Ouch!. Letter in hand and a hole in my wallet I returned to the Landy and Werner.
We then went in search of the Sudanese Embassy, as we didn't have anything marked on our Lonely Planet map of the city. Following directions from the guards at the British Embassy we circled a block of buildings which indeed had a lot of Embassies, but not the one we wanted. So after getting more directions we were pointed the right way. In fact it was a little way out side the city center in an industrial looking area and took up a huge triangular area between two main roads. We later found out that this was because the Ambassadors residence was also on the same plot. Unfortunately for us by the time we found the place it was closed for lunch. So we walked down the road to have a look around and ended up enjoying another nice cake and a juice and one of the many cafes that lined the street.
We returned at 14:00 like we were told, but were not allowed in until 15:00. We were then quickly explained that the system of application was under review and to turn tomorrow, as they should have clear idea of what the process should be. Not very satisfied with this answer me and Werner left with the feeling the games had only just started. I then dropped Werner off at a travel agents as he wanted to find out about flights home and I returned to the Taitu Hotel. Once back I ran into and got chatting to some other travelers, which was were Werner found me.
Later that evening we went in search of a traditional Ethiopian restaurant, which was recommended in the Lonely planet. After a bit of a walk we managed to find it without any bother and got chatting to two local students along the way, wondering what a couple of whities were doing walking around the streets. Looking at the restaurant from the outside it gave the impression of a very old but still elegant home. Which we later from out was exactly what it was before it was turned into a restaurant. We were soon shown to a table and were left to stare at the traditional decor and the menu fall of dishes that we hadn't a clue of what they were. We were feeling luck and so ordered a platter we little samples of many different dishes and some honey wine. The honey wine turned out to be strong stuff and the food very interesting, with many different tastes all combined with the sourer dough pancake. As we were eating we noticed my people filtering into another side room all fancily dressed in traditional robes. We asked the waiter what it was all about. Impressed at our curiosity in there culture he took as through to have a look, and explained that the young couple in a central position where going to get married and this was a meet a greet party for the relatives before the big day. With our heads and bellies full of Ethiopian culture we walked back to the Taitu Hotel where after setting camp we crashed out.
Again we started the day we a hearty breakfast to sticky cakes and tea ad one of the local cafes. The morning was spent getting chores out of the way. We washed and hang out most of our clothes and I checked over the Landy while Werner cleaned the cab area. The only worrying thing was that the transfer box was still leaking oil, but all I could do was top it up again and keep an eye on it.
Late morning we got chatting to a British couple Chris and Tania who were overland back to the UK from Namibia. They had just returned from a tour of the country to find out what was happening with there visa applications for Sudan. As it turned out they had been waiting for three weeks so far. Which was not what we wanted to hear.
Later that afternoon we met again outside the Sudan Embassy. By the time we were finally let in a small crowd had gathered, all with the same purpose to get a visa. We were all then explained the new application process. You now had to get a letter of invitation from a recognized tour agent or hotel. They would then also make an application on your behalf (after sending them passport photo and details) with the Ministry of Interior Affairs who would then issue an application number. You would than present this application number and your letter and recommendation and invitation to the embassy it Addis. Who would then confirm the application via fax with Khartoum.
Chris immediately got on the phone and soon found out that the only guy who knew the new process wanted 210 USD for each application. Disgruntled we all left, and stood outside of the embassy talking through the options. During which a Aussie biker called Christian turned up. It turned out that the British couple had met him before and relayed the dismal news of the new process. We all returned to the Taitu Hotel and continued our chat over a cold beer. This was when we were also introduced to a Aussie couple Cameron and Dani, who were backpacking around and were also looking at going to Sudan.
As the light started to fad and the temperature drop we decided to go to a nearby restaurant for dinner. Cameron and Dani had their own plans and so didn't come. The rest of us walked over the road, found a table and sat down. It was some time before a waiter brought us a menu and it took ages for the food to arrive, but was good. Or was it the fact that we would have eaten just about anything by the point. Anyway it gave us plenty of time to chat and get Christians full story and ask the British couple what bits of Ethiopia they had liked on their tour. It was late by the time we had finished dinner and so after the brief walk back to the hotel we went our separate ways. Werner and me then set camp buried our selves it our sleeping bags to escape the cold night air.
We started the day with what was now becoming our usual routine of going for breakfast at one of the local cafes. First job of the day was to go down to the tourist office to ask a few questions, like where the Saudi Arabian Embassy was and what the transport was like further north. We then walked up the road to check out a few other travel agents as Werner was still shopping around for the best price for his flight, after which we then drove round to the Djibouti Embassy. After getting round the weird guard on the gate, who was spaced out on Chat, I confirmed my suspicion that I was going to need another letter of recommendation to get thier visa. So we headed back to the British embassy and along the way stopped in at the Sheraton Hotel to get more money out. Unfortunately by the time we arrived at the British Embassy they had closed for lunch, which ment I would have to come back tomorrow for the letter. We drove back into town a stopped for lunch. We then refueled the Landys jerry cans and checked the tires pressure.
Next I dropped Werner off so he could go back to the travel agents, who were supposed to have an answers for him now, while I went in search of the Saudi Arabian Embassy. I managed to find the location the woman in the tourist office had given me. But it was now the Dutch Embassy and I got new directions from the guards there as to where it had moved. So back across the other side of town I went and cruised along the Bole road with runs out toward the airport. Along the way I saw plenty of signs for embassies from all sorts of different countries, including ones like Lesotho, which I did even realize had an embassy at all. Sure enough I eventually found the Saudi Arabian Embassy, parked up and went inside to ask about transit visa's.
Along the way back I stopped in a couple of book shops, including the one in the Hilton, hoping ot find a Middle East Lonely Planet, but didn't have any luck. Once back at the Taitu I sat with Werner and the other travelers enjoying the last of the afternoon sun while sipping a cool beer. We then all headed round to an Italian restaurant the British couple had found and enjoyed a great meal, and chatted the night away. We then carried on with the drinking for a bit in one of the local bars, until it was so late I couldn't keep my eyes open any more.
Days 301 to 310 Diary Index
Days 321 to 330