When I woke in the morning it was still raining lightly. So I packed away and had a quick breakfast before saying goodbye to Fallou. I then drove back to the main road running through Tambacounda and parked at the Total fuel station, where I had arrange to meet Emiel and Mirjam. It was not long before they turned up. They fuelled up and we then left town heading east for Kidira. It was a fast easy drive to Kidira, with good road all the way. Once in Kidira we found the police checkpoint, he told us we had to go to the main station in town to get our passports stamped. We followed his directions to the station and once there we got the exit stamps we needed. We then returned to the police checkpoint and on to the Mali Customs, who stamped the Carnet. The formalities on the Mali side were as straight forward and after popping into the various offices to get the passports and the carnet stamped we had entered Mali and were on our way. This didn’t last for long, in fact the first check point. The Police wanted to see all the normal papers and started saying that our insurance we had bought in Senegal was not valid in Mali. We thought at first that they were just looking for a reason to fine us, and Emiel and Mirjam argued the point. This didn’t help and we went back to the border to talk to the police there, as they spoke better English, so we could find out what the exact problem was. It turned out that the insurance guy in Senegal had scammed us, as the insurance was not valid for travel in Mali but for only the most direct route to the nearest insurance office in Mali. This was in Kayes and that was where we were trying to get to anyway, so we returned to the Police check point. But the police officer was still pissed at Emiel and Mirjam for questioning his judgement and didn’t want to let them through. He in fact wanted to send them back to Senegal to get the correct insurance. But because I had not argued with him he was prepared to let me through. As we went our separate ways, the Police office changed his mind at the last moment, feeling his point had been made and sent me to fetch Emiel and Mirjam back and tell them that they could continue with me to Kayes. All in all this had wasted two hours, before we were past the first checkpoint and on our way. The piste to Kayes was rough most of the way, with pot holes all over the place and plenty of corrugation. We arrived in Kayes late afternoon and after asking for directions made our way to the insurance office. This cost us another 50 Euros for 3 months insurance. We then left Kayes and headed for the old French fort just out side the town to the southeast. As soon as we left town we were back on piste and made our way to the fort and on past to a beautiful set of water falls, where we set camp for the evening. Before the light faded we went for a swim in the river, which was really refreshing after the long hot drive. We then spent the evening discussing the plan for the following day as well as having dinner, and it was not long before we went to bed.
I woke early with the light and the noise of the traffic on the piste just behind us. As all the locals seamed to be heading into Kayes. After packing the Landy and quick breakfast we head southeast along the piste to Diamou. This took us longer that we expected as the piste was quite rough it places. At Diamou we had to make the decision to either to take the longer easier route via Selinnkegni to Bafoulabe,or take the hard but more direct piste following the river. As they rains had not really started we opted for the hard more direct piste. Some section of which involved some real hardcore off roading, steep rocky climbs and dry river crossing with the entrances and exist torn to peaces by large washed out trenches. But the scenery was stunning in places and made it all worthwhile. I later found out somewhere along the way I lost my front diff guard. We stopped just outside of a village for lunch under the shade of a tree. Only after a few minutes I spotted three men approaching us with shotguns strapped across their backs. Thinking the worst, it was to late to jump into the Landy and make a get away, so we waited to see what they wanted. Thankfully they turned out to be friendly and were local hunters and after a quick chat they were on their way. After lunch we continued on our way to Bafoulabe, and whilst looking for the ferry found a private bridge we could pay to use and cross the river. This we did and we soon found ourselves on good fast piste running all the way to Mananttali. It was late afternoon by the time we arrived and we opted to continue on the road round the lake. This road proved to go in a different direction to any of the information we had and as the light started to fade we decided to pull off the road and bush camp for the night. I refuelled the main tank from my jerry cans, and before the light had completely gone, we had some visitors from a near by village. Unfortunately we could not talk to them much as they didn’t speak much French and we didn’t understand their local language. They only stayed a short time before wandering off. After making and eating dinne,r we only stayed up a short while chatting for climbing in the roof tents and falling asleep.
As we packed the Landies the visitors from the night before returned to watch the strange Europeans do their thing. We left and followed the piste we were on (even though it didn’t look good on the map, but eventually proved right) to Kita where we stopped to pickup bread for breakfast. We then stopped a short way down the road to have breakfast before continuing on toward Bamako. The piste was generally good and you could drive fast, until we found one big pothole. The Dutch couple were leading and only just managed to clip the hole and after sliding from one side of the road to the other regained control. Unfortunately for me, a bus was passing in the other direction and as I left its dust cloud I spotted the big pothole to late. I to clipped the hole, which through the Landy across the road and sliding sideways. I tried to correct slowly and opted to leave to road to control the slid. As I did so the Landy crossed a steep walled ditch meant for rainwater, and I hit it with such force that it bent the track rod (again) before coming to rest in the bush. We again had to remove the track rod to straighten it, with the aid of a tree, a rock and a large hammer. Within an hour everything was straight again and the wheels were pointing in the same direction. We continued on our way to Bamako and arrived late afternoon. After a couple of laps of the town centre we were lead to the Mission Catholic by a local on a motorbike. Once there we checked the place out, arranged to stay and brought the Landies into the courtyard. We then went across the road for a late lunch to a little restaurant, come bar, called Café Sport. We then took a walk around town before returning to the mission to have a snack for dinner and settle in for the night.
After waking and having a wash and some breakfast, we set off to go to the Burkina Faso embassy to apply for the visa. Luckily the head nun told us before we left that the embassy had moved to a new location and gave us the address. Not knowing how far it might be we jumped in a Taxi to take us there. It didn’t turn out to be that far away. We entered the embassy and filled all the necessary forms and photos, and they said to return a 13:00 to pick them up. So we walked back to the mission and spent the time cleaning the inside of the Landies, as there was so much dust from all the piste we had driven. When the time came we walked back to the embassy and picked up the visas. As we approached we ran into Matt who had also been to apply for his visa. He was not impressed with Mali and said that after a quick trip to Dogon country would move onto Burkina Faso. On the way back into town we stopped at a road side café and had lunch. Then after lunch we continued into town to find a bank and then an internet café. Once we had found the bank I was relieved to find that I could use my MasterCard to get a cash advance. We then went on to find an internet café, but the one we found was slow and didn’t even allow me to reply to e-mail. On the way back to the mission I stopped at one of the road side stalls and ordered a rubber stamp to be made with a picture of the Landy on and the website address. Once back I got stuck into the mountain of washing I had to do and by the time I had finished it that Emiel and Mirjam had returned from the other internet café. We then popped across the road to Café Sport to have dinner, where we spent the evening having a few beers as it lashed down with rain outside. Luckily by the time we left to go to bed the rain had eased off.
After having breakfast sheltering under the porch of the courtyard, I spent the whole morning catching up on diary entries for the website. I then had some lunch before heading into town to pickup the stamp that I had ordered. Along the way a couple of guys started chatting to me and I recognised them as the same two who had be showing Emiel and Mirjam around the day before. They then followed me to the stamp stall. Once there I checked the stamp only to find they had messed the picture up and spelt Jersey wrong. So I gave it back and told them to do it again. The guy said to return around 16:00 to pick the new one up. So with time to kill I asked if these guys knew were to find a spare wheel carrier. They said they new people with Land Rover parts and we talk to them. I spent the whole afternoon going form place to place with them looking for the carrier. This included a short trip on a moped, which was good fun. Unfortunately no one had what I was looking for and after picking up the stamp, which still had spelling mistakes, I returned to the mission. I then popped out again to find a telephone boutique to call home. After trying three different places I found one with a good line, as the other lines were crackly because of all the rain. I then returned to the mission to meet Emiel and Mirjam and we then went to a Chinese restaurant near by for dinner. The food was great and a nice change from the normal things we would have for dinner. On returning to the mission I got chatting to two Australians and one French girl who had also been travelling around Africa. They wanted some advice on overland vehicles, because they were planning to kit a van out in Canada and drive to South America. By the time we had finished chatting it was late and I crawled into bed.
After packing up and having some breakfast we left the Mission Catholic and crossed over to the south side of the river in search of a book shop which supposed to have maps. After a good look around we returned to a fuel station to fill up on fuel and to check over the Landies and grease the prop shafts. I also adjusted the PAS pump as the belt was slipping. We then left Bamako and spent all day driving to Segou, around 200K away, only stopping to pick up bread and have lunch. Once we arrived we drove round town looking at the few options for camping that existed and settled on camping in the car park at the back of one of the hotels. All the way round town the power steering was playing up and making strange noises. On checking it over the PAS pump was leaking oil, but I didn’t want to change it there and then so just topped the oil level up. While there was still light I spent the time rearranging the electrics for the stereo system to make it use less power, which involved bypassing the stereo head unit and running the CD player straight to the Amp. The rest of the evening was spent making and having dinner before having a shower and going to bed.
After the usual get up routine we left Segou and headed toward Djenne along the main road, passing through San along the way. Around 40Km short of the turn off for Djenne I noticed that the charging warning light had come on and that the engine temperature was rising fast. I pulled over to the side of the road and popped the bonet to see what the problem was. It was immediately obvious that the fan belt had snapped. In having to replace the fan belt you have to remove the PAS belt. So I decided this would be good time to change the PAS pump. 3 hours of working in the midday heat at the side of the road, the new PAS pump was fitted and the spare fan belt put on, and we were on our way again. As the road was good, it didn’t take long to reach the turning for Djenne and follow the piste to the river. Then the game begain. A temporary dirt bridge had been built across the river for trucks to use, but the bloke who controlled the barrier one minute said we could pay to use it, but then changed his mind and said we had to use the ferry. We had been tipped off by Paul and Kate that we met in The Gambia about this crossing, and they said the water was not that deep in the river. So I waded through the water finding a way across. At this point the bloke who controlled the barrier to the bridge gave up and let us through without paying. It was only then a short drive the Djenne where after a short drive around we found a place called Chez Baba to stay the night. After chill and having a beer a dust storm kicked up a forced us to make dinner in the bar area. Later that evening we met a guide who said he could show us around the Dogon country and so we spent the rest of the evening making a contract with him, for when we returned from Tombouctou. It was not long after we had finished the arrangements that I crawled into bed.
Once up and about, we got organised and went for a walk around Djenne. First stopping at the Grand Mosquee (this is the Mosque you see on the cover of the Africa Lonely Planet) and then passing through the smaller market and around the streets. Along the way we popped into a couple of small shops one selling jewellery and the other decorated blankets. We then returned to Chez Baba to pick up the Landies and drove a few K out of Djenne to a small village, where we also spent an hour having a look around. We then returned to Djenne, I filled up on fuel and again had fun with the bloke who controlled the barrier on the bridge. But this time he gave in quickly and we were soon on our way. We then drove to Sevare, but only stopped to check out the campsite we had been recommended, as we decided there was enough time to drive onto Douentza. It was early evening by the time we got to Douentza and we stopped at the first place we saw on the edge of town. I got busy and setup camp and had a quick dinner and I used the last hour of light to adjust the winch prop shaft bracket. I then had a shower chatted for a bit and went to bed.
After having breakfast and packing the Landy we went to pay for our stay. Unfortunately the guy thought head would try and scam as and said that there was tourist tax to pay on top. We were not having any of it and gave them the money for the price we had agreed the night before and forced our way out of the main gate. The guy tried to snatch the keys from Emiels Landy but he trapped the guys arm in the door. We quickly left, and circled back through the main village to find the start of the piste to Tombuctou. The scenery at the start of the piste was stunning, as you could see the towering mountains to the east through the haze of the morning. The first to thirds of the piste was generally good besides patches of corrugation, but the last third was harder with bull dust and deep ruts. Within a few hours we found our selves on the south bank of the river Niger. Where we waited for only a short time for the ferry to come over from the other bank. The ferry crossing was straightforward and cost 5000 CFA for each Landy. Once we arrived on the north bank in was only a short drive mostly along good tar road to the gates of Tombuctou, where of course we had to stop and get our pictures taken. We drove into central town and found the police station where we got the stamp in our passports and the customs came and found us. But that was just to check our documents were in order. We then stopped at a local restaurant for lunch. By this time a couple of guides had latched onto us, and we used them to take us to the internet café and then we drove to one of their compounds on the outskirts of the town. Where we sat drinking tea and had our very own personal market put on for us. As it was now late afternoon we decided to return to Hotel Camping, which we had spotted on the way into town. It was no problem to stay and we parked the Landies inside the small drive way and then sat down for a well earned beer. We soon realised that the customs guy we had been talking to earlier in the day was also drinking there, and he bought us another small beer. After setting up the tents and things I used Emiels Satellite phone to make a short call to Verena in Germany. It was nice talking to her, and fun to be able to say the words, “Guess where I am?” We then had a light snack for dinner, showered and went to bed.
During the night a dust storm had kicked up, and I had to batten down the hatches before going back to sleep. Whilst packing the Landy and cleaning the windows, the guide we had arranged to meet turned up. He then took us to the nearest post office, where we wrote post cards home and sent them off. We then popped round to what was Tombuctous University and the Djinguereber Mosque. While Emiel and Mirjam went for a tour of the inside of the Mosque I went wandering round the streets and found Gordon Laing’s and Rene Caillie’s houses who were to 19 century explorers who reached Tombuctou. We then went to the central market where the Dutch couple fuelled up there Landy and I bought some spare bits. We then left town and headed out along the piste in a Southwest direction towards Goundam. The piste was interesting and took us through scrubby desert, soft sand. We then drove onto Niafounke across mud plains and soft sandy patches, to take the first ferry we need. As the ferry could not get all the way to the bank, it was necessary for us to drive a short way through the water to board the ferry. This was no problem and the ferry soon dropped us off on the other side. We then drove in a south-easterly direction, doing a best to follow the vague piste. At some points we could not see any sign of the piste at all, and it was only the GPS that said it was there. Slowly but successfully we found our way to the second ferry crossing point, boarded the ferry and crossed the river to Sarafere. As we drove south we had to cross another river, but I at first took the wrong way across and had to be pulled out buy Emiels winch. I then had another go and made it across. Emiel and Mirjam then followed and despite a large bow wave made it across with no problem. We continued along the edge of the river and soon came across a large market that was finishing. Which meant we spent the next hour dodging donkey cart traffic along the piste. But everyone was friendly and smiling and it was all quite fun. As we left the donkey carts behind the light was fading, and we just made it to Konna before dark. We then took the main tar road back to Sevare and stopped at the Hotel Via Via. After an eventful day, all I done that evening was ate, showered and went to bed.